
When I find out where to catch the local taxi in a country then it’s over with. That’s exactly what happened in Namibia. The audacity of the driver at the airport to charge me 350 rands for a ride to my Airbnb. It was downright disrespectful. Yes, I could afford it—I mean it’s about $20 USD—but that isn’t the point. Not only am I a traveler that likes to blend in with the people as opposed to staying in tourist traps but, more important than that, I’m just cheap. Not gonna lie, I do not like spending money. You can’t use the threat of a high crime rate to make me cough up a grip in order to stay in an all-inclusive resort. You can’t force me to commute around town in vehicles approved by the official board of tourism and charge me $20 a trip because the car has air conditioning and the seatbelts work. I’m not built that way. I do not scare easily. Blame it on my East Oakland California upbringing.
So, I’m coming back from eating Kapana and fat cakes at a little hood spot called Wizy Man not far from The Dunes Mall in Walvis Bay.

I’m walking down the side of the main road trying to hail a taxi back to my place but for some reason they’re all passing me up which is quite weird because normally they would be honking in rhythm and screaming out of the window trying to get passengers into their van but now they’re acting all afraid. At this point a slender dark complexioned Namibian dude of about 35 years old says;Â
“Eish! You can’t get a cab here. You’ll get a fine. This is a highway.”
His warning forced me to actually talk in order to thank him, which may seem trivial but when I’m trying to blend in with a local community the last thing I want to do is speak because people instantly detect my American accent and from there it can get dicey. Maybe they ask me for money, maybe they try to scam me, maybe they ask me what the hell is wrong with Donald Trump, maybe they ask me if I know Meek Mill, either way my cover is totally blown. As was the case with this gentleman when I told him I’m from California. He was very chill about it though.
He did ask me questions about the weather and what brought me to Namibia, however, he exuded a sense of calm in his curiosity. Then he offered to walk with me to the Taxi rank, and I obliged. As we walked through the weathered Namibian sand his line of questions got rather personal. He had already established that he worked for the gas company and he was still in his uniform. He didn’t strike me as someone that I should be afraid of. He had an upright gait and was reserved in his nature. He spoke to me about the history of Walvis Bay and how it was the one region of Namibia that the South African colonizers did not want to give up because it was so lucrative.
We were chopping it up pretty tough which made my commitment to taking the local taxi more than worth it. He asked me if I found a woman back in Johannesburg and I opened up to him. I told him that I had. She was a pretty faced Tsonga girl from Limpopo, but I lost her and I was kind of heartbroken about it. He asked me what happened, to which I replied that we had gotten into an argument and the situation never got back to where it needed to be. He asked me whose fault it was and I stumbled with my words. I finally managed to say that it was debatable. I told him that I apologized to her twice, however, it didn’t have the desired effect.
“She took my apology as a sign of weakness. And after that she kept doing more and more. Like, she started talking super reckless and getting bold with me.”

I struggled to confide in him. This was actually the first time I had ever spoken about it, and I wasn’t sure that I was even making sense, but he got it.
“Yeah. Women can get that way.” He said somberly.
He slowed down half a beat as we were nearing the taxi rank. I could have hailed one on my own. We were close enough for the drivers to cruise by beeping their horns in quick succession while looking at us to see if we needed a lift. He did not need one because he lived nearby and suddenly, I had the patience to wait. I knew that whatever this man was about to say, he needed me there to listen. And that’s exactly what I did.
He and his wife were business owners but, in the beginning, their venture wasn’t doing well. They couldn’t get clients in their home turf of Walvis Bay which, by American standards, would be a rather slow, medium sized coastal town not unlike Monterrey, California. Somehow a decision was made to expand the brand to Johannesburg which, by American standards, is New York City. They decided—or she decided—that she should go to the city alone. He spoke to me with great clarity and with a bright veneer of confidence, while somehow simultaneously exuding the quiet vulnerability of a schoolboy telling his best friend about the problems that he was having at home.
“When you get married too young there’s always drama,” he said.
His face was stoic like a war veteran emotionally preparing himself to tell a combat story to civilians. It took all the power in his soul to keep him from falling apart as he spoke to me. His wife’s trips to Johannesburg grew longer and longer and to exacerbate the situation, she left him with their two small children every time she went to the city. At some point during the scaling of their business, she reasoned that it would be cheaper for her to get an apartment and live in Johannesburg part time. This is what sparked his investigation. He began checking her emails, her text messages, and eavesdropping on phone conversations. It didn’t take long for him to confirm that she was indeed having an affair. When he confronted her about it, she dug her heels into the ground. Not only did she admit to it, but she demanded a divorce.
I went mute. I did not say, Woooow. Nor did I say, Damn that’s hella crazy, under my breath. I only looked at him as he told a story that men typically never share with other men. And he did this while maintaining the utmost dignity. I just couldn’t imagine a young stranger back in the states recounting this to me while being completely sober. By now we had stopped moving. Our feet firmly planted in the sandy Walvis Bay Road. Our physical destination no longer mattered. We stood apart from all the Namibians who walked by us on either side with I just got off from work energy. His home no longer mattered and neither did my Airbnb. I listened to him as if it would save his life. And he spoke to me as though each syllable that he uttered was poison, and if he did not get it out of his system then he would surely die.
In his tribe, divorce is not handled by the courts. It is handled by the elders. The first step in the process, he told me, was both parties agreeing that they wanted to separate. He refused. He told them flat out that he did not want to divorce his wife. There was a pause at this point of his testimony. Then he cleared his throat. I nodded to let him know that I was still with him, but I still rendered myself inaudible. They received village counseling on their marriage for weeks. In the process her lover in Johannesburg backed out of the situationship due to the steady stream of anguish that she was bringing to him now that their affair was out in the open. His only intentions were to have fun. After all, he was there for the sex and not to be her therapist. Finally, after dozens of hours of mediated conversations, they were instructed to go back home and work on their relationship in earnest.
As soon as they settled back in together, his wife was as pleased with the marriage as she was when they were newlyweds. Her vibe was much lighter. She spoke to him with a sweetness that sounded foreign to his ears. And the more she cuddled up beside him in bed the more he realized that he was still extremely pissed with her. He told me that he had only stayed with her for the children. He also felt like she was mocking him with her joy. While she played, he tended to the children, and he worked every day at the gas company. Now that she was back it was his turn to go outside and play.
My mouth opened slightly while I moved my head closer to him in disbelief as if I was having a hard time hearing him from a mere two feet away. He had an affair; he told me with a sense of deep conviction. He is having an affair with a younger woman. His wife knows about it and does not like it, but he feels like he deserves it, for it brings him genuine joy every time he’s with this woman. He looked me directly in my eyes and with a levelheaded intensity asked me;
“Should I stop seeing my side chick because my wife doesn’t like it? Considering the fact that she has no moral ground to stand on?”
“Breh!…I mean damn. Ok. I feel like. Well first off…”
I was caught so far off guard. When I listen to someone, I listen aggressively. It requires all my strength, therefore the transition from being a listener to being a talker is always a difficult one for me to make.
“Shout out to you for fighting for your marriage. I think most men, including myself…Especially myself, would have let their ego take over when she asked for a divorce and just went along with it whether we wanted to or not. You deserve all the adulation in the world for that. And then you know what? Shout out to you for even getting married at such a young age. When my daughter was on the way the adults felt like I should have married her mom, but I explicitly said I wasn’t ready and though I meant it, sometimes I wish that I would have done it just so my daughter could know that she comes from a solid union. But you stepped into your faith and that’s very commendable.”
He nodded and said thank you as he looked off somewhere over my head and into the distance. I rambled a little longer before asking him what the agreed upon terms of their healing process were. I asked him if there was a grace period where the both of you could see other people or was the expectation to be 100% committed. He said it was the latter. Then I reminded him that he gave his word as a man.
“Once you give your word,” I went on. “Then you are beholden to it. You gotta look at it like this. You’re not giving your wife a second chance so much as God is giving your union a second chance. If you want your marriage to work, then you’re going to have to be 100% committed. You gotta let the side chick go. She’ll be alright.”
I try really hard not to give relationship advice because I am so bad at them but there, I was at a taxi rank in Walvis Bay, Namibia trying to fill up a depleted man with words of love. He received it. He did not say as much, however, I could see it in the relaxation of his shoulders and how deeply he began to breathe. He turned to the road and hailed a taxi for me which in this case was a white Nissan that already had four people in it. He asked for the price in Oshiwambo. It was 20 Namibian dollars straight to Langstrand which is about $1.25 USD. Hell yeah!

I gave him a quick fist bump before climbing into the backseat of the taxi. We did not share any more words with one another. The conversation was over though its qualities still resonate in my head as I’m sure it still resonates in his. We didn’t make things fake by exchanging social media or promising to hit one another up on WhatsApp. We just went our separate ways knowing that we had both made the other a better man.








